First taste - Sabina Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

One of the first things David Sabin shared with me today when we visited in Calistoga to taste his premiere releases was how everything happens for a reason. We were discussing the relative newness of my blog and how it developed organically as a continuation of my wine writing I have done since 1996. He said essentially it couldn't have manifested unless other previous events had happened in the precise order they had. Overcoming the temptation to name him my new self-actualization guru within the first ten minutes of meeting, I let him share  background on his wine, Sabina Vineyards, and how it grew out of his desire to create a garage project. In a matter of minutes we determined that mutual relationships with just a handful of well connected people had led us to sitting across from each other to discuss a pair of wines made by one of my favorite winemakers, David DeSante.

I found David Sabin to be a breath of fresh air with his realistic, low-key approach to his brand, named for his mother. The three acre property is adjacent to the historic Bale Grist Mill in St. Helena and the 150 year-old olive trees depicted on the label trace their way across the hillside vineyard, bisecting it with their almost sentinel presence harkening back to the origins of viticulture in the valley. When I actually saw them later in the afternoon, I commented to David that I almost expected them to come alive, not quite as sinister as the ones in The Wizard of Oz,  but certainly with a story to tell. The winery occupies a pristine portion of the lower level of his west-side valley home tucked away anonymously just past an oak tree on Highway 29. 

With fewer than 400 cases comprising his pair of bottlings: 2006 Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon; 200 cases, and 2006 St Helena, Estate; 185 cases, distribution will only go to a handful of markets, growth will be modest and partly due to the vagaries of nature (40% lower crop in 2008), self-regulating. The estate vineyard is a mere stones-throw away from the following venerable sites:  Grace Family, Vineyard 29, Stony Hill, and Colgin's Tycshon Hill.

Over a period of nearly two hours, I tasted both wines with David and was impressed by what I experienced. The following impressions were derived over 6+ hours of aeration that helped to further coax previously cloaked aspects into the open. 

2006 Sabina Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville $75.00 DW 93  

alcohol, 13.5%

aromas: black cherries, polished blue fruits with some slight smoky tapenade character, sandalwood and graphite

palate: delicate and elegant cherry, plum, nicely textured tannins and a bit of spice box on the finish

impression: the moderate alcohol levels in this wine convey a much more cerebral experience  than I ordinarily see in Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. The purity and elegance here just keeps gaining with air. Drink 2009 - 2020

2006 Sabina Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena, Estate $TBD DW 93 - 95

alcohol, 13.5%

aromas; cinnamon, creamy black fruits; berry and plum, sweet blue fruit essences, chocolate and hints of mint

palate: bigger structure than the Oakville, more tarry black fruit with a seamless core of cassis, licorice and violet still bench pressing some substantial oak.

impression: this wine is not destined to be released until September 2009. already it is showing bountiful promise despite some of its obvious youth and muscularity. Will revisit prior to release. Drink 2011 - 2020